Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Stormy Tuesday
I went out to the Cross and did something I've never done before. When looking at the crosscam, I couldn't decide which board I should bring, so I brought both. The waves were getting continuously bigger the whole time I was out there, so there is a good chance that they'll be huge tomorrow. There was a period of time with a good chop caused by wind blowing to the east while the waves were traveling west. I found a good sandbar that let me walk out and get in a good position to catch the waves. This turned out to be essential for using the fish. It was just too deep to either side of the sandbar to get past the breaking waves. In the past several days, I've been watching some surfing films such as Billabong Odyssey and Hollow Days. I found that it is possible to surf a longer board in big waves, and I tried it with some success today. I didn't have to much success with the fish, it was just rode so different from the longer board, that I switched back. Good times. We'll see if I can get out tomorrow.
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