After yesterday's huge waves, the size has dropped of significantly. The air temp was a little cooler, so I rocked my shorty wetsuit, even though it probably wasn't necessary. The waves
were coming in about every 5 minutes in decent sets, it made for some nice longboarding after riding the fish so much lately. The waves were breaking in nice clean lines, and you could ride the waves pretty far, unless you bottomed out on one of the sandbars. I was surfing the area between the Cross and the Holiday in. I followed some of the advice from the link I posted the last entry, and looked for the foam that was created as the waves broke. This really helped me catch and ride the waves better. I've also found that I have the tendency to rush when a wave is coming - such as when I'm standing in the water next to my board so I can get a better view of the waves - that when I hop back on my board, if I don't allow the nose to stabilize and get above the surface, I'll pearl for sure. When I gave myself that extra second to stabilize the board, then start paddling, everything worked out much better. The sandbars today were pretty pronounced. It was really necessar
y to wait for the sets to come in as opposed to try to ride the smaller waves that broke over the sandbar. I also found that the sandbars extend out like a "V" into the water, I was most successful when I would position myself the either the left or the right of where the wave first broke (during big sets of course), and could avoid the sandbar. There were part of the breaking waves that didn't barrel, but just sort of folded and foamed over; I found that I could catch a wave when it was barreling, and then ride it sideways away from the sandbar and still be able to ride the wave when it was foaming but not barreling. I also found that standing up as soon as you can without falling/lagging behind the wave works better than waiting until you are well established in the wave to stand up. Waiting too long results in being to far ahead of the wave and you loose thrust.
Also, I tried out Ms. Palmers Cool Weather wax. It worked well, I stayed out the whole time without coming in so I ended up rubbing a bunch of the wax off. I still had the warmer temp wax on the board below the cool water wax, so I had to use my finger nails to make more traction in the wax. My other leash has a mini wax comb that would've been handy for today.
were coming in about every 5 minutes in decent sets, it made for some nice longboarding after riding the fish so much lately. The waves were breaking in nice clean lines, and you could ride the waves pretty far, unless you bottomed out on one of the sandbars. I was surfing the area between the Cross and the Holiday in. I followed some of the advice from the link I posted the last entry, and looked for the foam that was created as the waves broke. This really helped me catch and ride the waves better. I've also found that I have the tendency to rush when a wave is coming - such as when I'm standing in the water next to my board so I can get a better view of the waves - that when I hop back on my board, if I don't allow the nose to stabilize and get above the surface, I'll pearl for sure. When I gave myself that extra second to stabilize the board, then start paddling, everything worked out much better. The sandbars today were pretty pronounced. It was really necessar
y to wait for the sets to come in as opposed to try to ride the smaller waves that broke over the sandbar. I also found that the sandbars extend out like a "V" into the water, I was most successful when I would position myself the either the left or the right of where the wave first broke (during big sets of course), and could avoid the sandbar. There were part of the breaking waves that didn't barrel, but just sort of folded and foamed over; I found that I could catch a wave when it was barreling, and then ride it sideways away from the sandbar and still be able to ride the wave when it was foaming but not barreling. I also found that standing up as soon as you can without falling/lagging behind the wave works better than waiting until you are well established in the wave to stand up. Waiting too long results in being to far ahead of the wave and you loose thrust. 
Also, I tried out Ms. Palmers Cool Weather wax. It worked well, I stayed out the whole time without coming in so I ended up rubbing a bunch of the wax off. I still had the warmer temp wax on the board below the cool water wax, so I had to use my finger nails to make more traction in the wax. My other leash has a mini wax comb that would've been handy for today.
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