Today was the first red flag out at Pensacola Beach since I started surfing back in the middle of June. I broke out my Yancy Spencer 7'6" fish, I've been learning to surf this board since August. I was using a longboard before this, but it lacks the maneuverability to ride down the pipe. I was out between the Cross and the Holiday Inn. I was able to catch some smaller waves that were breaking after hitting the sandbar (Pensacola Beach tends to have 2 sets of waves - there is a sandbar off the shore that can make the water pretty shallow, sometimes 6 inches or less! - and the waves crashes and rolls at the beginning of the sandbar, then dies down, then breaks again closer to the shore) These shore waves usually aren't all that ride able (you risk grounding on the beach), but these were breaking further out and were pretty large. I spent a good amount of time trying to get out past the break, but I was unable. The waves were way to big and were constantly crashing, as opposed to coming in sets. I did find a sandbar in front of the Holiday Inn that did allow me to get out to the waves. I did some research after I got back, because I've been out with the big waves before, and I wind up spending most of my time trying to get out past the break.
Here's the
site that really has some good info for getting
out to the break. I also found that my wax (I used to be a fan of Bubblegum, but I found that Ms. Palmers is easier to apply and stays on better) was to hard and didn't provide enough traction. I purchased some cooler water wax the next day I went out, and it worked much better. I improvised by using my wax comb to put a good 6 or more directional crosshatch pattern in the wax where I needed the most traction. A wax comb is an essential piece of gear for roughing up your wax after it is applied, and for stripping wax of the board when you need to clean it. And no, you don't apply the wax to the bottom of the board! Every time I teach someone to surf, I have to stop them before the start waxing the bottom of the board. Surfing is probably the only activity where you use wax for traction and friction, as opposed to making things smooth or sleek. Also, there is not need to wave past the part of the board which you'll be standing on. As for my progression on the fish board, it is still much more difficult to catch a wave than on my longboard, and I find the board is much more sensitive to rider position as well. Too far back and you won't be able to catch any waves. I'm yet to use the traction pad, I've been told the traction pad is used for sharp turns and I have found that you shouldn't stand on it during regular rides.
Today was the first red flag out at Pensacola Beach since I started surfing back in the middle of June. I broke out my Yancy Spencer 7'6" fish, I've been learning to surf this board since August. I was using a longboard before this, but it lacks the maneuverability to ride down the pipe. I was out between the Cross and the Holiday Inn. I was able to catch some smaller waves that were breaking after hitting the sandbar (Pensacola Beach tends to have 2 sets of waves - there is a sandbar off the shore that can make the water pretty shallow, sometimes 6 inches or less! - and the waves crashes and rolls at the beginning of the sandbar, then dies down, then breaks again closer to the shore) These shore waves usually aren't all that ride able (you risk grounding on the beach), but these were breaking further out and were pretty large. I spent a good amount of time trying to get out past the break, but I was unable. The waves were way to big and were constantly crashing, as opposed to coming in sets. I did find a sandbar in front of the Holiday Inn that did allow me to get out to the waves. I did some research after I got back, because I've been out with the big waves before, and I wind up spending most of my time trying to get out past the break.
Here's the site that really has some good info for getting out to the break. I also found that my wax (I used to be a fan of Bubblegum, but I found that Ms. Palmers is easier to apply and stays on better) was to hard and didn't provide enough traction. I purchased some cooler water wax the next day I went out, and it worked much better. I improvised by using my wax comb to put a good 6 or more directional crosshatch pattern in the wax where I needed the most traction. A wax comb is an essential piece of gear for roughing up your wax after it is applied, and for stripping wax of the board when you need to clean it. And no, you don't apply the wax to the bottom of the board! Every time I teach someone to surf, I have to stop them before the start waxing the bottom of the board. Surfing is probably the only activity where you use wax for traction and friction, as opposed to making things smooth or sleek. Also, there is not need to wave past the part of the board which you'll be standing on. As for my progression on the fish board, it is still much more difficult to catch a wave than on my longboard, and I find the board is much more sensitive to rider position as well. Too far back and you won't be able to catch any waves. I'm yet to use the traction pad, I've been told the traction pad is used for sharp turns and I have found that you shouldn't stand on it during regular rides.
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