I've been fortunate enough to get back out to Cali and ride some waves. It's been way to long since I've been surfing and I didn't have a board on the West Coast. Sounds like something that I need to fix! A quick trip to the Vista Play it Again Sports, and for under 150 bucks I was back in action on a fiberglass Progressive surf board with a pointy nose and a short fish tail, leash included. The last time I surfed in Cali, I rented a board up at Beacons Beach. I figure that it's simpler to know a board and then learn the break rather than try to do both at the same time. The board already had some wax one it (more on that later) so I was off to the beach just as soon as I mounted my new GoPro surfboard rig. I fought my way through the incoming surf out the break at approx
33*12’7.1” N 117*23’39.5W. I wasn't close to the jetty to ride the rip, but the waves kept crashing down on me. I finally managed to get out to the break, a 4-6" left hand break that a goofy footed surfer like me usually loves. Unfortunately, the wax on the surfboard just didn't do the job, even with the surf booties I wear in cold weather that give me extra grip. I ended up getting pushed out of the break and towards shore. The grip was so bad that I had trouble even bodysurfing ontop of the board in the smaller waves closer to shore. Lesson learned, always have wax, even when you don't think you need it! I also set my board down on the beach and the go pro ended up popping loose; so make sure that you give the glue time to set before you hit the beach! The camera shot some clear footage, but since I never caught a decent wave, I don't have too much to show from it. Ride on.
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