Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Big Tuesday Barrels
Waves were pretty big, probably chest high or bigger on the big ones. Those were pretty hard to ride because by the time you begin to catch the wave, it crash and throw you over. I probably spent half the time underwater... Also had to surf backside to the wave, which really isn't my favorite way being goofy footed and all. Seems like the waves were just breaking that way though. Included are some pics from the last surfing session and a couple others that I just never got around to pulling off my camera.
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Love those cloud formations!
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