Finally got my board back after my jetty jumping adventure, and almost ran into more trouble today. I didn't get out until after 5:30 today (sundown was at 6:30); I misplaced the three screws that attach my fins to my board. Turns out that I had put them in my key pocket on the eightseven's leash. Wind has been picking up all day, it's gotten even worse while I've been back and as I write this blog entry. I decided to check out the north side of the Packery channel jetty. The wind was gusting from the North West and fine sand was blowing across the beach like snow across the field in wintertime. After parking near the north jetty, I angled my car into the wind and cautiously took my board of the roof. I left the upwind strap attached by loose to make it easier to get my board on and off my roof. I'm not a big fan of getting smacked in my face with the board! I finally got it off my roof and did my best to apply a coat of wax to the board. I didn't have too much luck because the blowing sand kept getting into the wax. With every intention of surfing a couple small waves and getting out well before the sunset, I stepped out into the 56 degree gulf. I managed to catch one decent wave, I sorta rode it while standing on the tail. I found myself close to the jetty, so I tried paddling directly away from it, I knew there was a rip there, and I didn't want it to pull me out into the big waves past the end of the jetty. Meanwhile, the sun ways on the horizon. I kept stroking away from the jetty, I was able to gain a little distance, but I began to realize that I was getting pulled closer and closer to the end of the jetty. I started getting a little afraid, last thing I wanted to do was to be pulled way out past the jetty and it be too dark for anyone to see me. I managed to catch a small wave, but it was headed for the jetty and put me back into the heart of the rip. As I got further out, the waves kept getting bigger, but didn't break in the rip. I saw a guy further out than me. Once far enough out, he was able to catch a big wave and ride it into shore. I suddenly realized that the only way to get back to shore, was to let the rip pull me further out. As I got further out, the rip began to lose the lateral pull, and I was able to swim out to where the waves were breaking. Now the sun was just below the edge of the western sky. I had to make sure not to catch the side of the wave that ran back towards the rip. I managed to catch a wave and have it carry me closer to shore. I stayed on my stomach so I could ride it as far as possible. I caught a smaller wave and I was close enough to put my feet back on solid ground (if you call fine beach sand that) and get back to shore.
That rip was scary because there was no way to escape it without trying to be a daredevil and scale the jetty, or let it pull you far enough out until you could swim laterally. Also, it was getting dark and I didn't have a good coat of wax to be able to setup a good angle on a wave to get further away from the rip. The good part is that I have a better understanding of the rip, and it is way cleaner to use it on the north side to get out into good waves. The waves were big, but they weren't all that violent. The waves out here are alot less violent than those at Pensacola beach.
No comments:
Post a Comment