Surfing at Sundown on a Friday

Went surfing late today. The sun was setting and there were knee to waist high waves coming in. It was a beautiful day and it was a magnificent finale out on the beach. Almost too distracting with the way the light was reflecting off the waves. The waves were clean but small, still a good half h0ur or so of surfing. Man oh man I can't imagine what it would be like living out on the west coast with big waves coming in every day. I don't know why the waves are so small on this side of the country, but it sucks. They are fun to ride, but even with my fish, I'd have more fun out off Padre Island when it comes to shredding waves. It's beautiful, but rarely all that exciting. Gotta wait for storm action, and then it's pretty sloppy. Still, it's motivating knowing that I can surf in water 10 degrees above freezing. Lets see what tomorrow holds!

Surfing off the Oceanic Pier

I got a pair of Xcel surf gloves after last times botched adventure. The waves were breaking in the knee to thigh range and luckily I'm working the night tonight so I was able to get out. It was still kinda chilly, 44 degree water and a 40 degree air temp tend to do that, especially with gray rainy conditions. I did catch some fun little waves that I was able to ride towards the beach on. Part of me feels like I get alot better after every time I'm able to surf in Cali. Hopefully I'll get out there this March and shred some waves.

Attempted Surfing after the snow storm

Tried to get out surfing on January 11th this year, had my new wetsuit, hood, and booties but it was just too cold. The sand was covered in an icy crust and the water was churning. Some people were out catching some pretty crazy waves. I got in the water and caught two little waves before my hands went numb before I called it a day.

California Dreaming

Ah beautiful California!?! I flew in through the mountains during a massive rainstorm that made the desert bloom and turn green. Unfortunately it rained here and there while I was out that way. I made my way towards Huntington Beach, where you can watch the sunset over Catalina Island. Quite magnificent really, I've been to Catalina twice and I didn't know you could see it from the mainland. Sorta reminds me of a painting I did. Ended up in San Diego for a couple days around New Years. I wish I could've been down there longer but I enjoyed my time up in the mountains too. Surfed New Years Eve at Tourmaline, then the next day at La Jolla right next to Scripps Institute. Saw some pretty big dolphins out there as well. They came pretty close. I do say I caught one of my top 5 favorite waves that day. Not too many other decent waves, being that I was using my Yancy Fish, which is fast and can cut really hard, but sucks to paddle. It must've been a freak five foot high clean breaking wave that I rode pretty good. I'm actually getting tempted to get me a nice Walden Long Board for the smaller days. Oh I can't wait to get back, I guess I'll have to shred as many Carolina waves and any other East Coast breaks I can hunt down in the meantime....